Sharmon Lebby ni umwanditsi akaba n'umuhanga mu by'imideli urambye wiga kandi agatanga raporo ku isano iri hagati y'ibidukikije, imideli, n'umuryango wa BIPOC.
Ubwoya ni umwenda ukoreshwa mu minsi ikonje n'ijoro rikonje. Uyu mwenda ufitanye isano n'imyenda yo hanze. Ni ibikoresho byoroshye kandi byoroshye, ubusanzwe bikozwe muri polyester. Ingofero, ingofero, n'amatafari byose bikozwe mu bikoresho by'ubukonje byitwa polar fleece.
Kimwe n'umwenda usanzwe, turashaka kumenya byinshi ku bijyanye no kumenya niba ubwoya bufatwa nk'uburambye n'uko bugereranywa n'indi myenda.
Ubwoya bwabanje gukorwa nk'ubusimbura ubwoya. Mu 1981, isosiyete y'Abanyamerika Malden Mills (ubu yitwa Polartec) yafashe iya mbere mu gukora ibikoresho bya polyester bikozwe mu buryo bwa brushed. Binyuze mu bufatanye na Patagonia, bazakomeza gukora imyenda myiza, yoroshye kurusha ubwoya, ariko igifite imiterere nk'iy'imyenda y'inyamaswa.
Nyuma y'imyaka icumi, habayeho ubundi bufatanye hagati ya Polartec na Patagonia; kuri iyi nshuro hibanzwe ku gukoresha amacupa ya pulasitiki yasubiwemo mu gukora ubwoya. Igitambaro cya mbere ni icyatsi kibisi, ibara ry'amacupa yasubiwemo. Muri iki gihe, ibigo bifata ingamba ziyongeraho zo gukoresha imigozi ya polyester yasubiwemo cyangwa kuyisiga irangi mbere yo gushyira imigozi ya polyester yasubiwemo ku isoko. Ubu hari amabara atandukanye aboneka ku bikoresho by'ubwoya bikozwe mu myanda yakoreshejwe nyuma yo kubigura.
Nubwo ubusanzwe ubwoya bukorwa muri polyester, mu by'ukuri bushobora gukorwa muri fibre iyo ari yo yose.
Kimwe na velvet, ikintu nyamukuru kiranga ubwoya bw'inyuma ni ubwoya bw'inyuma. Kugira ngo hakorwe ubuso butoshye cyangwa buzamutse, Malden Mills ikoresha uburoso bw'icyuma buzunguruka kugira ngo icagagure imigozi yakozwe mu gihe cyo kuboha. Ibi kandi bisunika imigozi hejuru. Ariko, ubu buryo bushobora gutuma umwenda ugwa, bigatuma utubumbe duto twa fibre ku buso bw'umwenda.
Kugira ngo ikibazo cyo gusiga irangi ku gikoresho cyo mu bwoko bwa pilling, ibikoresho muri rusange "byogoshwa", bituma umwenda wumva woroshye kandi ugashobora kugumana ubuziranenge bwawo igihe kirekire. Muri iki gihe, ikoranabuhanga nk'iryo rikoreshwa mu gukora ubwoya.
Uduce twa polyethylene terephthalate ni intangiriro y'igikorwa cyo gukora fibre. Imyanda irashongeshwa hanyuma ikanyuzwa mu gice gifite utwobo twinshi cyane cyitwa spinneret.
Iyo ibice byashongeshejwe bisohotse mu myobo, bitangira gukonja no gukomera bikaba imigozi. Hanyuma imigozi izunguruka ku bikombe bishyushye ikajyamo imigozi minini yitwa imigozi, hanyuma ikagenda irambura kugira ngo ikore imigozi miremire kandi ikomeye. Nyuma yo kurambura, ihabwa imiterere ishaje binyuze mu mashini ikora, hanyuma ikayumishwa. Muri iki gihe, imigozi icibwamo santimetero, nk'imigozi y'ubwoya.
Iyi migozi ishobora gukorwamo ubudodo. Imigozi yaciwe n'iyaciwe inyuzwa mu mashini ikora imigozi ya fibre. Iyi migozi ishyirwa mu mashini izunguruka, ikora imigozi myiza ikayizunguruka ikavamo imigozi. Nyuma yo kuyisiga irangi, koresha imashini iboha kugira ngo ubohe imigozi mu mwenda. Kuva aho, ikirundo gikorwa binyuze mu kunyuza umwenda mu mashini ikora ubudodo. Amaherezo, imashini itunganya izaca ubuso buzamutse kugira ngo bukore ubwoya.
PET yasubiwemo ikoreshwa mu gukora ubwoya ituruka mu macupa ya pulasitiki yasubiwemo. Imyanda yavuye mu icupa isukurwa kandi igashyirwa mu mikorobe. Nyuma yo kumisha, icupa ricagagurwamo uduce duto twa pulasitiki hanyuma rikongera gukaraba. Ibara ryoroheje rirahinduka ibara ry'icyatsi kibisi, icupa ry'icyatsi kibisi rigakomeza kuba ibara ry'icyatsi kibisi, hanyuma rikajya rihinduka ibara ryijimye. Hanyuma ukurikize inzira imwe na PET ya mbere: shongesha ibice hanyuma ubihinduremo imigozi.
Itandukaniro rikomeye riri hagati y’ubwoya n’ipamba ni uko bumwe bukozwe mu migozi ya sintetike. Ubwoya bwagenewe kwigana ubwoya bw’ubwoya no kugumana ubushobozi bwabwo bwo kwirinda amazi n’ubushyuhe, mu gihe ipamba ari karemano kandi rishobora gukoreshwa mu buryo butandukanye. Si ibikoresho gusa, ahubwo ni n’imigozi ishobora kubohwa cyangwa kubohwa mu myenda iyo ari yo yose. Imigozi y’ipamba ishobora no gukoreshwa mu gukora ubwoya.
Nubwo ipamba ryangiza ibidukikije, muri rusange bizera ko riramba kurusha ubwoya gakondo. Kubera ko polyester ikora ubwoya ari iy’ubukorikori, bishobora gufata imyaka myinshi kugira ngo ibora, kandi igipimo cyo kubora kw’ipamba kirihuta cyane. Igipimo nyacyo cyo kubora giterwa n’imiterere y’imyenda n’uko ari ipamba 100%.
Ubwoya bukozwe muri polyester ubusanzwe ni umwenda ugira ingaruka zikomeye. Ubwa mbere, polyester ikorwa muri peteroli, ibikomoka kuri peteroli ndetse n'umutungo muke. Nkuko twese tubizi, gutunganya polyester bitwara ingufu n'amazi, kandi binakubiyemo imiti myinshi yangiza.
Uburyo bwo gusiga irangi ku myenda ikoze mu buhanga nabwo bugira ingaruka ku bidukikije. Ubu buryo ntibukoresha amazi menshi gusa, ahubwo bunasohora amazi yanduye arimo amarangi adakoreshejwe n'ibinyabutabire byangiza ibinyabuzima byo mu mazi.
Nubwo polyester ikoreshwa mu bwoya bw'intama idapfa kubora, irabora. Ariko, iyi nzira isiga uduce duto twa plastiki twitwa microplastics. Ibi si ikibazo gusa iyo umwenda ugeze mu mwobo, ahubwo no mu gihe woza imyenda y'ubwoya. Ikoreshwa ry'abaguzi, cyane cyane kumesa imyenda, bigira ingaruka zikomeye ku bidukikije mu gihe cyose imyenda ikoreshwa. Bikekwa ko miligarama zigera ku 1.174 za microfibers zirekurwa iyo ikoti rya sintetike rimeswa.
Ingaruka z'ubwoya bwongerewe ni nto. Ingufu zikoreshwa na polyester yongerewe zigabanukaho 85%. Muri iki gihe, 5% gusa bya PET ni byo bisubirwamo. Kubera ko polyester ari yo fibre ya mbere ikoreshwa mu myenda, kongera iri janisha bizagira ingaruka zikomeye mu kugabanya ingufu n'ikoreshwa ry'amazi.
Kimwe n'ibindi bintu byinshi, ibigo by'ubucuruzi birimo gushaka uburyo bwo kugabanya ingaruka zabyo ku bidukikije. Mu by'ukuri, Polartec iri kuyobora iyi gahunda mu gushyiraho ingamba nshya zo gutuma imyenda yabo ishobora kongera gukoreshwa 100% kandi ibora.
Ubwoya bukorwa mu bikoresho bisanzwe, nka ipamba na hemp. Bukomeje kugira imiterere imwe n'ubwoya bw'inzoga n'ubwoya bw'inzoga, ariko ntibugira ingaruka mbi cyane. Iyo bitaweho cyane ku bukungu bw'uruziga, ibikoresho bishingiye ku bimera n'ibisubirwamo birashoboka cyane ko bikoreshwa mu gukora ubwoya.
Igihe cyo kohereza: 14 Ukwakira 2021