Sharmon Lebby munyori uye mugadziri wemafashoni anogara kwenguva refu anodzidza uye anotaura nezvekusangana kwekuchengetedzwa kwezvakatipoteredza, mafashoni, uye nharaunda yeBIPOC.
Makushe ijira remazuva anotonhora nehusiku hunotonhora. Jira iri rine chekuita nembatya dzekunze. Ijira rakapfava, rakapfava, rinowanzogadzirwa nepolyester. Magiteni, ngowani, nemasikafu zvese zvakagadzirwa nezvinhu zvakagadzirwa nesimbi zvinonzi polar fleece.
Sezvakaita chero jira ripi zvaro, tinoda kudzidza zvakawanda nezvekuti mvere dzemakwai dzinoonekwa sedzinochengetedza nguva uye kuti dzinoenzaniswa sei nedzimwe jira.
Mvere dzakagadzirwa pakutanga senzira yekubvisa mvere dzemakwai. Muna 1981, kambani yekuAmerica yeMalden Mills (ikozvino yava Polartec) yakatungamira mukugadzira zvinhu zvepolyester zvakarukwa. Kuburikidza nekushandira pamwe nePatagonia, vacharamba vachigadzira machira emhando yepamusoro, akareruka kupfuura mvere dzemakwai, asi achiri nechimiro chakafanana neshinda dzemhuka.
Makore gumi gare gare, kwakabuda kushandira pamwe pakati pePolartec nePatagonia; panguva ino chinangwa chaive chekushandisa mabhodhoro epurasitiki akadzokororwa kugadzira mvere. Jira rekutanga girini, ruvara rwemabhodhoro akadzokororwa. Nhasi, mabrandi anotora matanho ekuwedzera ekuchenesa kana kudhaya mvere dzepolyester dzakadzokororwa vasati vaisa mvere dzepolyester dzakadzokororwa pamusika. Iye zvino kune mavara akasiyana-siyana anowanikwa ezvishandiso zvemvere zvakagadzirwa nemarara evanoshandisa mushure mekushandisa.
Kunyange zvazvo mvere dzemakwai dzichiwanzogadzirwa nepolyester, zvinogona kugadzirwa nerumwe rudzi rwefiber.
Kufanana nevelvet, chinhu chikuru chinowanikwa ne polar fleece jira refleece. Kuti rigadzire nzvimbo dzakapfava kana dzakasimudzwa, Malden Mills inoshandisa mabhurashi esimbi akatenderera kupwanya zvishwe zvakagadzirwa panguva yekuruka. Izvi zvinosundirawo mafibers kumusoro. Zvisinei, nzira iyi inogona kukonzera kupwanyika kwejira, zvichikonzera mabhora madiki efiber pamusoro pejira.
Kuti dambudziko rekushandisa mvere dzemakwai rigadziriswe, jira racho rinongoveurwa, izvo zvinoita kuti jira rinzwe rakapfava uye rinogona kuramba rakanaka kwenguva yakareba. Nhasi uno, tekinoroji imwechete inoshandiswa kugadzira mvere dzemakwai.
Machipisi epolyethylene terephthalate ndiwo mavambo ekugadzirwa kwefiber. Marara acho anonyungudutswa obva apinda mu diski ine maburi madiki anonzi spinneret.
Kana zvidimbu zvakanyungudutswa zvabuda mumaburi, zvinotanga kutonhora uye kuomarara kuita fiber. Fiber dzinozotenderedzwa pazvimedu zvinopisa kuita mabundles makuru anonzi tows, ayo anozotambanudzwa kuti aite fibers dzakareba uye dzakasimba. Mushure mekutambanudza, inopihwa texture yakakwenya kuburikidza nemuchina wekukwenya, uye yozoomeswa. Panguva iyi, fibers dzinochekwa kuita masendimita, zvakafanana nefibers dzemvere.
Matayi aya anogona kugadzirwa kuita shinda. Matayi akakweshwa uye akachekwa anopfuudzwa nemuchina wemakadhi kuti agadzire tambo dzeshinda. Matayi aya anozoiswa mumuchina wekutenderera, unoita tambo dzakapfava uye wodzitenderedza kuita ma bobbins. Mushure mekudhaya, shandisa muchina wekuruka kuti uruke shinda kuita jira. Kubva ipapo, murwi unogadzirwa nekupfuudza jira nemumuchina wekurara. Pakupedzisira, muchina wekugera uchacheka pamusoro pevhu kuti ugadzire mvere.
PET inoshandiswa kugadzira mvere dzemakwai inoshandiswa kugadzira mvere inobva mumabhodhoro epurasitiki akashandiswazve. Marara anobviswa mushure mekushandiswa anocheneswa uye anoiswa mushonga wekuuraya utachiona. Mushure mekuomeswa, bhodhoro rinopwanywa kuita zvidimbu zvidiki zvepurasitiki rozogezwa zvakare. Ruvara rwakajeka runotsvukiswa, bhodhoro regirini rinoramba riri regirini, uye gare gare rinopendwa kuita ruvara rwakasviba. Wobva watevedzera maitiro akafanana nePET yekutanga: nyungudutsa zvidimbu wozvishandura kuita shinda.
Musiyano mukuru uripo pakati pemvere dzemakwai nedonje ndewekuti imwe yakagadzirwa neshinda dzekugadzira. Dehwe rakagadzirwa kuti ritevedzere mvere dzemakwai uye rirambe riine hunhu hwaro hwekusapindirana nemvura uye hwekupisa, nepo donje riri rechisikigo uye rinogona kushandiswa zvakasiyana-siyana. Harisi chinhu chete, asiwo faibha inogona kurukwa kana kurukwa kuita chero rudzi rwejira. Faibha dzedonje dzinogona kutoshandiswa kugadzira mvere dzemakwai.
Kunyangwe donje richikuvadza nharaunda, zvinofungidzirwa kuti rinogara kwenguva refu kupfuura mvere dzechinyakare. Nekuti polyester inogadzira mvere yakagadzirwa nemakemikari, zvinogona kutora makumi emakore kuti iore, uye mwero wekuora kwedonje unokurumidza zvikuru. Mwero chaiwo wekuora unoenderana nemamiriro ejira uye kana riri donje 100%.
Makushe akagadzirwa nepolyester anowanzo kuve jira rine simba guru. Chekutanga, polyester inogadzirwa nepetroleum, mafuta efossil uye zviwanikwa zvishoma. Sezvatinoziva tese, kugadzira polyester kunodya simba nemvura, uye kunewo makemikari akawanda anokuvadza.
Maitiro ekudhaya machira ekugadzira anewo simba pane zvakatipoteredza. Maitiro aya haangoshandisi mvura yakawanda chete, asiwo anoburitsa mvura yakasviba ine madhayi asina kudyiwa uye makemikari anokuvadza zvisikwa zvemumvura.
Kunyangwe polyester inoshandiswa mumvere dzemakwai isingaori, inoora. Zvisinei, maitiro aya anosiya zvidimbu zvidiki zvepurasitiki zvinonzi microplastics. Izvi hazvisi dambudziko chete kana jira rapera, asiwo kana uchisuka mbatya dzemvere dzemakwai. Kushandiswa nevatengi, kunyanya kusuka mbatya, kunokanganisa zvakanyanya nharaunda munguva yehupenyu hwembatya. Zvinotendwa kuti ma microfibers angangoita 1,174 milligrams anoburitswa kana bhachi rekugadzira rawachwa.
Kukanganiswa kwemvere dzemakwai dzakadzokororwa kushoma. Simba rinoshandiswa nepolyester yakadzokororwa rinoderedzwa ne85%. Parizvino, 5% chete yePET ndiyo inodzokororwa. Sezvo polyester iriyo faibha yekutanga inoshandiswa mumachira, kuwedzera chikamu ichi kuchave nemhedzisiro huru mukuderedza simba nekushandiswa kwemvura.
Kufanana nezvimwe zvinhu zvakawanda, makambani ari kutsvaga nzira dzekuderedza kukanganisa kwavo nharaunda. Kutaura zvazviri, Polartec iri kutungamira nechirongwa chitsva chekuita kuti machira avo akwanise kudzokororwa 100% uye kuora.
Makushe anogadzirwawo nezvinhu zvechisikigo, zvakaita sedonje nehemp. Anoramba aine hunhu hwakafanana nehwema hwechigadzirwa nemvere, asi haakuvadzi zvakanyanya. Nekunyanya kutarisisa hupfumi hwedenderedzwa, zvinhu zvinobva mumiti uye zvakadzokororwa zvinogona kushandiswa kugadzira makushe.
Nguva yekutumira: Gumiguru-14-2021