USharmon Lebby ngumbhali kunye nomzobi wefashoni ozinzileyo ofunda aze axele ngokudibana kokusingqongileyo, imfashini, kunye noluntu lwe-BIPOC.
Uboya ngelaphu leentsuku ezibandayo nobusuku obubandayo. Eli laphu linxulumene nempahla yangaphandle. Liyinto ethambileyo, ethambileyo, edla ngokwenziwa nge-polyester. Iiglavu, iminqwazi, kunye nezikhafu zonke zenziwe ngezinto zokwenziwa ezibizwa ngokuba yi-polar fleece.
Njengakweyiphi na ilaphu eliqhelekileyo, sifuna ukufunda ngakumbi malunga nokuba uboya begusha buthathwa njengobuzinzileyo na kunye nendlela obuthelekiswa ngayo nezinye ilaphu.
Uboya ekuqaleni benziwe endaweni yoboya. Ngo-1981, inkampani yaseMelika iMalden Mills (ngoku eyiPolartec) yakhokela ekuphuhliseni izinto zepolyester ezibrashiweyo. Ngokusebenzisana nePatagonia, baya kuqhubeka bevelisa amalaphu asemgangathweni ongcono, alula kunoboya, kodwa aseneempawu ezifana neefayibha zezilwanyana.
Kwiminyaka elishumi kamva, kwavela enye intsebenziswano phakathi kwePolartec nePatagonia; ngeli xesha kwagxilwa ekusebenziseni iibhotile zeplastiki ezisetyenzisiweyo ukwenza uboya. Ilaphu lokuqala liluhlaza, umbala weebhotile ezisetyenzisiweyo. Namhlanje, iimpawu zithatha amanyathelo ongezelelweyo okusebenzisa i-bleach okanye idayi kwiifayibha zepolyester ezisetyenzisiweyo ngaphambi kokuba zifake iifayibha zepolyester ezisetyenzisiweyo kwimarike. Ngoku kukho uluhlu lwemibala ekhoyo yezinto zoboya ezenziwe ngenkunkuma yasemva komthengi.
Nangona uboya budla ngokwenziwa nge-polyester, ngokwesayensi bunokwenziwa phantse nangaluphi na uhlobo lwefayibha.
Njengevelvet, uphawu oluphambili lwefleece ephothiweyo yilaphu lefleece. Ukuze enze iindawo ezithambileyo okanye eziphakanyisiweyo, iMalden Mills isebenzisa iibrashi zentsimbi ezisilinda ukuqhekeza imijikelo eyenziwe ngexesha lokuluka. Oku kukwatyhala imicu phezulu. Nangona kunjalo, le ndlela inokubangela ukugoba kwelaphu, nto leyo ebangela ukuba iibhola ezincinci zefayibha zihlale phezu kwelaphu.
Ukuze kusonjululwe ingxaki yokufakwa kwe-pilling, le nto isetyenziswa kakhulu “ukucheba”, nto leyo eyenza ilaphu livakale lithambile kwaye linokugcina umgangatho walo ixesha elide. Namhlanje, kusetyenziswa ubuchwepheshe obufanayo ukwenza uboya.
Iitships ze-polyethylene terephthalate ziqala inkqubo yokwenziwa kweefayibha. Inkunkuma iyanyibilika ize iphoswe kwidiski enemingxuma emincinci kakhulu ebizwa ngokuba yi-spinneret.
Xa iziqwenga ezinyibilikisiweyo ziphuma kwimingxunya, ziqala ukuphola zize ziqine zibe yimicu. Emva koko imicu ijikeleziswa kwimibhobho eshushu ibe yimiqulu emikhulu ebizwa ngokuba yitow, emva koko yolulwa ukuze yenze imicu emide neyomeleleyo. Emva koko yolulwa, inikwa ubume obushwabeneyo ngomatshini wokuqhobosha, ize yomiswe. Kweli nqanaba, imicu iyanqunyulwa ibe ziisentimitha, ezifana nemicu yoboya.
Ezi fibre zingenziwa zibe yimisonto. Iintambo ezikrwelwe nezisikiweyo zidluliselwa kumatshini wokubhala amakhadi ukuze zenze iintambo zefayibha. Ezi ntambo emva koko zifakwa kumatshini ojikelezayo, owenza imisonto ecolekileyo aze ayijikelezise ibe ziibobbins. Emva kokudaywa, sebenzisa umatshini wokuluka ukuze uthunge imisonto ibe ngelaphu. Ukusuka apho, inqwaba iveliswa ngokudlulisa ilaphu kumatshini wokulala. Ekugqibeleni, umatshini wokucheba uya kunqumla umphezulu ophakanyisiweyo ukuze wenze uboya.
I-PET ephinda isetyenziswe esetyenziselwa ukwenza uboya ivela kwiibhotile zeplastiki eziphinde zasetyenziswa. Inkunkuma esetyenzisiweyo emva kokusetyenziswa iyacocwa kwaye ibulawe iintsholongwane. Emva kokomiswa, ibhotile iyatyunyuzwa ibe ziingceba zeplastiki ezincinci ize ihlanjwe kwakhona. Umbala okhanyayo uyatshixwa, ibhotile eluhlaza ihlala iluhlaza, ize kamva idaywe ibe nombala omnyama. Emva koko landela inkqubo efanayo ne-PET yokuqala: nyibilikisa iziqwenga uze uziguqule zibe yimisonto.
Umahluko omkhulu phakathi kwefleece nekotoni kukuba enye yenziwe ngeefayibha zokwenziwa. Ifleece yenzelwe ukuxelisa ifleece yoboya kwaye igcine iipropati zayo zokugquma amanzi kunye nobushushu, ngelixa ikotoni yendalo kwaye isebenziseka lula. Ayisiyonto nje kuphela, kodwa ikwayifayibha enokulukwa okanye ilukwe kuyo nayiphi na uhlobo lwelaphu. Iifayibha zekotoni zinokusetyenziselwa ukwenza uboya.
Nangona umqhaphu uyingozi kwindalo esingqongileyo, kukholelwa ngokubanzi ukuba uzinzile ngakumbi kunoboya bendabuko. Ngenxa yokuba i-polyester eyenza uboya yenziwe ngokwenziwa, kungathatha amashumi eminyaka ukubola, kwaye izinga lokubola komqhaphu likhawuleza kakhulu. Izinga elichanekileyo lokubola lixhomekeke kwiimeko zelaphu kunye nokuba ingaba yi-100% yomqhaphu.
Uboya obenziwe nge-polyester budla ngokuba yilaphu elinempembelelo enkulu. Okokuqala, i-polyester yenziwe nge-petroleum, amafutha e-fossil kunye nezixhobo ezinqongopheleyo. Njengoko sonke sisazi, ukucubungula i-polyester kudla amandla namanzi, kwaye kukwaqulathe neekhemikhali ezininzi eziyingozi.
Inkqubo yokudaya amalaphu okwenziwa nayo inefuthe kwindalo esingqongileyo. Le nkqubo ayisebenzisi nje kuphela amanzi amaninzi, kodwa ikwakhupha amanzi amdaka aneedayi ezingasetyenziswanga kunye nezinto ezibangela iikhemikhali, eziyingozi kwizidalwa zasemanzini.
Nangona i-polyester esetyenziswa kwi-wool ingaboli, iyabola. Nangona kunjalo, le nkqubo ishiya iziqwenga zeplastiki ezincinci ezibizwa ngokuba zii-microplastics. Oku akusiyongxaki kuphela xa ilaphu liphelela kwindawo yokulahla inkunkuma, kodwa kwanaxa kuhlanjwa iimpahla ze-wool. Ukusetyenziswa kwabathengi, ingakumbi ukuhlamba iimpahla, kunempembelelo enkulu kwindalo ngexesha lobomi bempahla. Kukholelwa ukuba malunga ne-1,174 milligrams yee-microfibers ziyakhululwa xa kuhlanjwa ijakethi yokwenziwa.
Impembelelo yoboya obusetyenzisiweyo incinci. Amandla asetyenziswa yi-polyester esetyenzisiweyo ancitshiswa ngama-85%. Okwangoku, yi-5% kuphela ye-PET ephinda isetyenziswe. Ekubeni i-polyester yeyona fiber iphambili esetyenziswa kwimpahla, ukunyusa le pesenti kuya kuba nempembelelo enkulu ekunciphiseni amandla nokusetyenziswa kwamanzi.
Njengezinye izinto ezininzi, iimpawu zifuna iindlela zokunciphisa impembelelo yazo kwindalo. Enyanisweni, iPolartec ikhokela le ndlela ngenyathelo elitsha lokwenza iingqokelela zabo zelaphu ziphinde zisetyenziswe kwaye zibole nge-100%.
Uboya benziwa ngezinto zendalo ezininzi, ezifana nomqhaphu kunye nehemp. Ziyaqhubeka zineempawu ezifanayo nezoboya bezandla kunye noboya bezandla, kodwa azinabungozi kangako. Ngokuqwalasela ngakumbi uqoqosho olujikelezayo, izinto ezisekwe kwizityalo kunye nezinto ezisetyenzisiweyo zinokwenzeka ukuba zisetyenziswe ekwenzeni uboya.
Ixesha lokuthumela: Oktobha-14-2021