USharmon Lebby ungumbhali kanye nosomabhizinisi wemfashini oqhubekayo ofunda futhi abike ngokuhlangana kokuvikelwa kwemvelo, imfashini, kanye nomphakathi we-BIPOC.
Uboya yindwangu yezinsuku ezibandayo kanye nobusuku obubandayo. Le ndwangu ihlobene nezingubo zangaphandle. Iyinto ethambile, ethambile, evame ukwenziwa nge-polyester. Ama-Mittens, izigqoko, kanye nezikhafu konke kwenziwa ngezinto zokwenziwa ezibizwa ngokuthi i-polar fleece.
Njenganoma iyiphi indwangu evamile, sifuna ukufunda kabanzi ngokuthi ngabe uboya bezimvu bubhekwa njengobuhlala isikhathi eside nokuthi buqhathaniswa kanjani nezinye izindwangu.
Uboya ekuqaleni badalwa njengobuthatha indawo yoboya. Ngo-1981, inkampani yaseMelika iMalden Mills (manje eyiPolartec) yahola ekuthuthukiseni izinto ze-polyester ezixutshwe ngebrashi. Ngokubambisana nePatagonia, bazoqhubeka nokukhiqiza izindwangu zekhwalithi engcono, ezilula kunoboya, kodwa ezisanezici ezifana nezemicu yezilwane.
Eminyakeni eyishumi kamuva, kwavela olunye ubudlelwano phakathi kwePolartec nePatagonia; kulokhu kwagxilwa ekusebenziseni amabhodlela epulasitiki asetshenziswe kabusha ukwenza uboya. Indwangu yokuqala iluhlaza okotshani, umbala wamabhodlela asetshenziswe kabusha. Namuhla, izinkampani zithatha izinyathelo ezengeziwe zokusebenzisa i-bleach noma ukudaya imicu ye-polyester esetshenziswe kabusha ngaphambi kokufaka imicu ye-polyester esetshenziswe kabusha emakethe. Manje sekukhona uhla lwemibala etholakalayo yezinto zoboya ezenziwe ngemfucuza yangemva komthengi.
Nakuba uboya buvame ukwenziwa nge-polyester, ngokobuchwepheshe bungenziwa cishe nganoma yiluphi uhlobo lwefayibha.
Njenge-velvet, isici esiyinhloko se-polar fleece yindwangu ye-fleece. Ukuze idale izindawo ezithambile noma eziphakanyisiwe, i-Malden Mills isebenzisa amabhulashi ensimbi ayisilinda ukuphula izihibe ezenziwe ngesikhathi sokuluka. Lokhu futhi kusunduza imicu phezulu. Kodwa-ke, le ndlela ingabangela ukugoba kwendwangu, okuholela kumabhola amancane e-fiber ebusweni bendwangu.
Ukuze kuxazululwe inkinga yokubopha indwangu, indwangu empeleni “igundwe”, okwenza indwangu izwakale ithambile futhi ingagcina ikhwalithi yayo isikhathi eside. Namuhla, ubuchwepheshe obufanayo obuyisisekelo busetshenziswa ukwenza uboya.
Ama-polyethylene terephthalate chips ayisiqalo senqubo yokukhiqiza ifayibha. Imfucumfucu iyancibilika bese iphoqwa ukuthi idlule kudiski enezimbobo ezincane kakhulu ezibizwa ngokuthi i-spinneret.
Uma izingcezu ezincibilikisiwe ziphuma emigodini, ziqala ukuphola futhi ziqine zibe imicu. Imicu ibe isisontwa ezitsheni ezishisayo zibe yizinqwaba ezinkulu ezibizwa ngokuthi ama-tow, bese zinwetshwa ukuze zenze imicu emide neqinile. Ngemva kokunwetshwa, inikezwa ukuthungwa okushwabene ngomshini wokugoqa, bese yomiswa. Kuleli qophelo, imicu inqunywa ibe amasentimitha, njengemicu yoboya.
Lezi zindwangu zingenziwa zibe yizintambo. Izindwangu ezigoqekile nezisikiwe zidluliswa ngomshini wokubhala amakhadi ukuze zakhe izintambo zezintambo. Lezi zindwangu zibe sezifakwa emshinini wokuphotha, owenza izindwangu ezincane bese uziphotha zibe yizintambo. Ngemva kokudaya, sebenzisa umshini wokuluka ukuze uthunge izintambo zibe yindwangu. Ukusuka lapho, inqwaba ikhiqizwa ngokudlulisa indwangu emshinini wokulala. Ekugcineni, umshini wokugunda uzosika indawo ephakanyisiwe ukuze kwakheke uboya.
I-PET ephinde yasetshenziswa ukwenza uboya ivela emabhodleleni epulasitiki aphinde asetshenziswa. Imfucuza esetshenziswe ngemva kokusetshenziswa iyahlanzwa futhi ihlanzwe amagciwane. Ngemva kokomiswa, ibhodlela liyachotshozwa libe yizicucu ezincane zepulasitiki bese ligezwa futhi. Umbala okhanyayo uyashintshwa, ibhodlela eliluhlaza lihlala liluhlaza, bese kamuva lidaywa libe nombala omnyama. Bese ulandela inqubo efanayo ne-PET yokuqala: ncibilikisa izingcezu bese uziguqula zibe imicu.
Umehluko omkhulu phakathi kwe-fleece nekotini ukuthi eyodwa yenziwe ngemicu yokwenziwa. I-fleece yenzelwe ukulingisa i-fleece ye-wool futhi igcine izakhiwo zayo zokuvikela amanzi kanye nokushisa, kuyilapho ikotini ingokwemvelo futhi iguquguquka kakhudlwana. Akuyona nje into, kodwa futhi i-fiber engalukwa noma ilukwe kunoma yiluphi uhlobo lwendwangu. Imicu yekotini ingasetshenziswa ngisho nokwenza uboya.
Nakuba ukotini uyingozi emvelweni, ngokuvamile kukholelwa ukuthi uzinzile kakhulu kunoboya bendabuko. Ngenxa yokuthi i-polyester eyenza uboya yenziwe ngezinto zokwenziwa, kungathatha amashumi eminyaka ukubola, futhi izinga lokubola kokotini lishesha kakhulu. Izinga eliqondile lokubola lincike ezimweni zendwangu nokuthi ngabe ingukotini ongu-100%.
Uboya obenziwe nge-polyester buvame ukuba yindwangu enomthelela omkhulu. Okokuqala, i-polyester yenziwe ngophethiloli, amafutha asetshenziswa ezifosini kanye nezinsizakusebenza ezilinganiselwe. Njengoba sonke sazi, ukucubungula i-polyester kudla amandla namanzi, futhi kuqukethe amakhemikhali amaningi ayingozi.
Inqubo yokudaya izindwangu zokwenziwa nayo inomthelela emvelweni. Le nqubo ayisebenzisi nje kuphela amanzi amaningi, kodwa futhi ikhipha amanzi angcolile aqukethe amadayi angasetshenzisiwe kanye nama-surfactants amakhemikhali, ayingozi ezintweni eziphilayo zasemanzini.
Nakuba i-polyester esetshenziswa kuboya ingaboli, iyabola. Kodwa-ke, le nqubo ishiya izingcezu ezincane zepulasitiki ezibizwa ngokuthi ama-microplastics. Lokhu akuyona nje inkinga lapho indwangu igcina isendaweni yokulahla udoti, kodwa futhi nalapho iwasha izingubo zoboya. Ukusetshenziswa kwabathengi, ikakhulukazi ukugeza izingubo, kunomthelela omkhulu emvelweni ngesikhathi somjikelezo wokuphila kwezingubo. Kukholakala ukuthi cishe ama-milligram angu-1,174 e-microfibers akhishwa lapho ijazi lokwenziwa lihlanzwa.
Umthelela woboya obusetshenzisiwe mncane. Amandla asetshenziswa yi-polyester esetshenzisiwe ancishiswa ngo-85%. Njengamanje, yi-5% kuphela ye-PET esetshenziswa kabusha. Njengoba i-polyester iyi-fiber yokuqala esetshenziswa ezindwangu, ukwandisa leli phesenti kuzoba nomthelela omkhulu ekunciphiseni amandla nokusetshenziswa kwamanzi.
Njengezinto eziningi, izinkampani zifuna izindlela zokunciphisa umthelela wazo kwezemvelo. Eqinisweni, iPolartec ihola lo mkhuba ngesinyathelo esisha sokwenza amaqoqo azo ezindwangu aphinde asetshenziswe futhi abole ngo-100%.
Uboya benziwe ngezinto zemvelo eziningi, njengokotini kanye ne-hemp. Ziyaqhubeka nokuba nezici ezifanayo noboya besikhumba bezobuchwepheshe kanye noboya besikhumba, kodwa azinangozi kangako. Ngokunaka kakhulu umnotho ojikelezayo, izinto ezisekelwe ezitshalweni kanye nezinto ezisetshenziswe kabusha cishe zingasetshenziswa kakhulu ukwenza uboya besikhumba.
Isikhathi sokuthunyelwe: Okthoba-14-2021